At 4807 metres high, Mont-Blanc remains the roof of Europe. Unquestionably, this mountain is the flagship of the Alps. In fact, it marked the beginning of mountaineering. Because its past is extremely rich, discover thehistory of Mont-Blanc's ascent, including key dates, important figures and anecdotes.
History of the Mont-Blanc ascent: the feat of Jacques Balmat and Michel Paccard
It was 1760 when the Genevan scientist De Saussure promised a substantial reward to the Chamonix resident who reached the summit of Mont-Blanc. One unsuccessful attempt followed another. At the time, the massif was known as the " cursed mountain". Even today, one of the peaks is called Mont Maudit.
Two local boys, local crystal hunter Jacques Balmat and Dr Michel Paccard, a passionate mountain enthusiast, took up the challenge on August 8, 1786. The two men, aged 24 and 29 respectively at the time, have their own statues in a square in downtown Chamonix. For the record, Michel Paccard, whose motivations were profound and gratuitous, never derived any glory from his feat. He gave the entire reward to Balmat. Balmat presented himself as the guide who had done everything, and Paccard as the client who had to be carried. It was only in 1932 that the doctor's honor was restored.
As for De Saussure, a key figure in the history of Mont Blanc ascents, he in turn climbed the summit on August 3, 1787, accompanied by 18 guides. His ascent had a worldwide impact. Thanks to him, the mountain became fashionable. And the number of visitors continues to grow...
The Hamel caravan accident, a key episode in the history of the Mont Blanc ascent
In 1820, climbing Mont-Blanc was still a rarity and a feat. It was then that Russian-born doctor Jacques Hamel set out to conduct experiments in the Mont-Blanc massif. A dozen guides were called upon to take him and his equipment (stove, camera, etc.) to the summit. Despite the inclement weather, he insisted on continuing the ascent. The caravan set off again, but the snow began to slide.
Three guides never returned from this expedition. Pierre Balmat, Pierre Carrier and Auguste Tairraz were lost forever in a crevasse. It was the first fatal accident on a Mont Blanc ascent route. The next day, Dr Hamel returned to Geneva, never to set foot in Chamonix again!
This accident shows just how difficult it used to be for guides to make themselves heard by their clients. This episode, which punctuated the history of Mont-Blanc climbing, was at the origin of the creation of the Compagnie des Guides in 1823. Entire family lines were to emerge on both sides of Mont-Blanc, combining for generations the surnames of illustrious guides (Croz, Ravanel, Croux, Payot, Grivel, Rey, Vallot, etc.).
The first ascent of Mont Blanc by a woman
The first ascent of the summit by a woman took place in 1808. Her name was Marie Paradis, known as La Paradisa, and she lived in a hamlet of Les Houches in the Chamonix Valley. From a very modest background, she worked as an inn servant. Most accounts of the time agree that the roped party, led by Jacques Balmat, was made up of several Chamonix residents. Marie Paradis's ascent didn't attract much media attention, unlike that ofHenriette d'Angeville thirty years later.
Nicknamed the "fiancée of Mont Blanc", this aristocrat was the second woman to reach the summit. Henriette d'Angeville was also the first woman to climb to the summit unaided. For the occasion, she had a special outfit made up of baggy pants, a slim-fitting coat and an insulating balaclava.
